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February 1981 - Page 12

Continue t he rest o f t he bends in the handrail. I soldered the handrail ends t o the first handrail stanchion on the side o f the smokebox. That's why you won't be able to remove the smokebox front t o install the boiler weight. Mill o ut the front coupler pocket so the coupler o f your choice will fit. T hat completes the locomotive.

h atch and riser. Save the tank hatch for later use. Fill the riser holes. After I went t o the trouble t o scratchbuild a new water hatch riser, I found a casting that is made by Precision Scale Company. B ut, in case you are unable to obtain one , I have included how t o build one from scratch. C ut o ut the new water tank hatch riser as per Figure 9c using brass shim stock.

All t hat is left is t o make a few changes t o the tender. Refer t o Figures 9a and 9b for the tender modifications.



Figure 9c

' ' ,

Figure 9a

1B .0
Figure 9 b

Begin by removing the oil deck to water deck handrail and steps. Remove headlight casting and the water tank

I heated the riser with a torch (annealed) so it would be easy to bend. I made a balsa wood form t o b end the wr apper around. Hemostat clips come in handy to hold the riser together while you are soldering the seam together. Cyanoacrylate adhesive can also be used instead o f soldering it together. Solder t he water t ank h atch on the riser (or cement it on if you prefer). Make sure the seam is a t the back o f the hatch so i f y ou d on't do too good a job ; it will be hidden when i t is installed. I cemented the riser and hatch onto the tender deck. Cut o ff the new headlight casting from the headlight mounting bracket casting and solder the new headlight casting onto the bracket that is m ounted on the tender deck.

The redetailed 5 06 h as clean lines a nd y et eye catching details.

A uthor p hoto



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